From afar, Hanoi seems like just another busy Asian city with a dizzying amount of motorbikes. Once you look past its blemishes, however, you'll find a buzzing metropolis full of culture, amazingly inexpensive food, and interesting ancient history. Hanoi's mismatched architecture tells a story of the city's occupation and influences from Chinese Buddhist/Confucianist temples to ornate crumbling Colonial French buildings and even bleak Soviet-era apartment structures. Though surprisingly, in a ci...
From afar, Hanoi seems like just another busy Asian city with a dizzying amount of motorbikes. Once you look past its blemishes, however, you'll find a buzzing metropolis full of culture, amazingly inexpensive food, and interesting ancient history. Hanoi's mismatched architecture tells a story of the city's occupation and influences from Chinese Buddhist/Confucianist temples to ornate crumbling Colonial French buildings and even bleak Soviet-era apartment structures. Though surprisingly, in a city this size, there aren't many dedicated queer spaces, but rather an array of queer-friendly coffee shops, clubs, and bars where you'll find young fashionable Hanoians and a thriving international queer community.
The city is centered around the winding narrow streets of the Old Quarter which are filled with steaming food stalls, honking motorbikes, and hidden cafes down narrow alleys. At first, this area is overwhelming, the sidewalks are filled with vendors and parked scooters so pedestrians often share the streets with vehicles. Traffic lights and crosswalks are a suggestion, so pedestrians cross the street by walking slowly into traffic while making eye contact with drivers. Don't bother looking at a map, and let yourself wander into the chaos. This area is filled with markets, Buddhist temples, historical landmarks, delicious street food, and lots of places to buy handcrafted goods. If you're new to Vietnamese cuisine, make sure to try Phở, Bánh mì, and Bún chả to get started.
If you need a break from the chaos, pop in the area's many coffee shops, often found down narrow alleys that lead to staircases with open-air rooftops. Hanoi is known for its coffee culture which ranges from Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk and fruity iced concoctions, to the infamous egg coffee. As you stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake, take in the sights of locals dancing and exercising at dusk. Don't miss out on a water puppet show that features traditional Vietnamese music and puppetry. The two major theatres are located around the lake.
This area is also known for its spa culture, whether you're looking for a quick foot massage, a male-for-male massage, or a luxury experience – you'll find it in this area. West of the Hoan Kim Lake you'll come across a collection of gay-friendly cafes and bars, but Hanoi doesn't have a set gayborhood.
As you meander south, the streets begin to widen and you'll see remnants of Hanoi's French occupation in the form of derelict colonial buildings in the aptly named French Quarter. If you're looking to learn more about Hanoi's history make sure to visit the Hanoi Women's Museum or Hoa Lo Prison Museum, both are located in the area. This neighborhood has plenty of street-side cafes as well as upscale shopping and dining options.
West and North of the Old Quarter hold some of Hanoi's most popular attractions, including the fascinating Confucianist Temple of Literature which still attracts students today to pray for good grades on their exams. The canary yellow Presidential Palace and the Vietnamese Fine Arts Museum are also located in this district. Heading north of the Old Quarter, and East of Truc Bach Lake, you'll find an enclave of art galleries, independent bookstores, and waterfront cafes.
Not technically in "inner Hanoi", the neighborhood of Westlake, named after its orientation West of the city's largest body of water Tây Hồ, is filled with middle-class family homes, high-rise luxury hotels, and a thriving international community. This is where queer nightlife, trendy coffee shops, vintage boutiques, and chic restaurants thrive. In fact, the area surrounding the whole lake has a lot to offer.
Most of the city's action is centered around these general neighborhoods, but greater Hanoi has a lot going on, especially West of the inner city. In general, anytime is a great time to visit Hanoi. The summers are hot and steamy, but afternoon downpours keep the city feeling fresh and green. The winter months are pleasantly warm but do keep in mind that pollution levels are highest at this time. Many travelers tend to stay within walking distance of the old quarter as public transportation is not easy to navigate, and renting a scooter is not for the faint of heart. If you choose to stay outside of this area, don't fret as many car service apps are plentiful, timely, and cheap.
A Note on Safety:
Vietnam is a safe destination for LGBTQ+ travelers. Although same-sex marriage is not yet legal, same-sex acts have never been illegal and there are Pride celebrations throughout Vietnam. The Vietnamese culture of live and let live can be seen through their tolerance. Public displays of affection are not common in Vietnam even between heterosexual couples so expect some glares if you choose to do so. Pickpocketing and petty theft are common in crowded spaces so always keep an eye on your valuables and cell phone. Be aware of overtly friendly and good-looking men around Hoàn Kiếm Lake, as they are known to swindle wide-eyed gay men.